Autumn is the season that quietly pays you back. A couple of dry afternoons spent tidying, mulching and cutting back now will save you a great deal of heartache in February, when waterlogged clay and rotting crowns are much harder to put right. The trick is not to do everything, and not to do it too fiercely. Our borders need to go into winter with their roots protected, their crowns clear of soggy debris, and plenty of good organic matter sitting on top, ready to be worked in by worms long before spring arrives.

Clear the Leaves Before They Settle

Fallen leaves are the single biggest threat to low-growing border plants. Left in place, they form a damp, airless blanket over the crowns of alpines, thyme, lavender and small herbs, and rot sets in quickly in a wet winter. Rake little and often rather than waiting for the last leaf to drop — weekly is ideal from October onwards.

• Work gently around crowns with a hand fork or gloved fingers rather than a stiff rake, which can lift shallow roots.
• Brush gravel and paths with a soft broom so leaves do not blow back into the border.
• Keep what you collect. Pack damp leaves into bin bags with a few holes poked in them, or a wire bin, and leave them somewhere out of the way. Oak and beech break down slowly, lime and sycamore quickly. Next autumn you will have leaf mould to use as mulch or seed compost.
• Skip the leaf blower on beds, but it can be useful on lawns and driveways if you have one.

Cut Back the Spent Stems — Selectively

Cutting back herbaceous perennials to about 10–15cm (4–6in) above ground does three useful things: it removes decaying material, it marks exactly where the crown sits so you do not fork through it later, and it stops the mulch from smothering the growing points.

But do not clear everything. Standing stems and seedheads hold structure through winter, feed the birds, and provide hiding places for overwintering insects. Leave ornamental grasses, sedum, echinacea, teasel and anything with attractive seedheads until late February or March, when you can see new growth at the base.

• Bin diseased foliage — anything with mildew, rust or black spot — rather than adding it to the compost heap.
• Leave old growth on penstemons and hardy fuchsias. Cut them back in late spring instead, once hard frosts have passed.
• Keep crowns of rosemary, lavender and thyme clear of fallen leaves and cut stems; they hate winter wet far more than cold.
• Sharpen your secateurs before you start. Clean cuts heal, and the job is far more enjoyable with a sharp blade.

Mulch Bare Soil, But Not Yet Frozen Ground

Mulching is the most valuable hour you will spend in the border. A layer of well-rotted organic matter — a mix of homemade compost, leaf mould and rotted manure is ideal — insulates roots, suppresses winter weeds, protects soil structure from heavy rain, and feeds the soil life that feeds your plants.

Aim for 5–7cm (2–3in) spread over bare soil, but keep it clear of stems. Leave a small gap around the base of every plant, so nothing is buried and no collar of damp material sits against the bark. Work in dry conditions, when the soil is damp but not frozen and not waterlogged.

• On heavy clay, mulch prevents the surface panning and cracking, and improves structure over time.
• On light sandy soil, it holds moisture and nutrients that would otherwise wash straight through.
• Do not dig it in. Worms and weather will take it down for you.
• In small borders, carry mulch in a bucket and trickle it into tight corners by hand — a full barrow is often too much.

Look After the Soil You Are Standing On

The quietest damage in any garden is compaction, and it happens most in winter when soils are soft. Keep off wet borders, and if you must reach something, lay a plank down and walk on that to spread your weight. Firm any newly planted shrubs back in after frost, and check that nothing has been lifted by wind rocking.

While you are out there, clear leaves from drains and gullies, and tip saucers out from under pots. In small spaces and on balconies, raise containers onto feet so water drains freely, and group pots together in a sheltered corner against a wall for mutual protection.

Finish With the Small Spaces

Tight courtyard borders and container plantings need the same treatment, scaled down. Refresh the top 5cm of compost in pots rather than repotting everything, cut back spent annuals, and top the surface with a thin layer of grit to stop rain splashing compost onto leaves and to make life harder for slugs. A crisp, half-moon-cut edge along a narrow border will hold its shape all winter and makes even a tiny plot look cared for.

Finally, plant spring bulbs in any gaps you have cleared. They cost little, ask nothing, and give you something to look forward to in the darkest weeks of the year. Then put your tools away, make a cup of tea, and let the garden rest. It has earned it — and so have you.